Thursday, October 7, 2010
Il Cani D'Italia
The first thing that struck me about Italy were the dogs!
Beautiful places, ancient ruins, modern cities, pastas and dolces, throngs of tourists .. it was all what I expected but surprise surprise - dogs! Everywhere in Italy!
Traveling 2 weeks sans polka was hard - I missed her terribly but the sight of these four-legged creatures was comforting. One could see them in the metros, buses, trams, walkways, malls, high fashion stores, cafes... It was crazy! Soon it was easy to tell a city by its dogs.
Milan - the fashion capital of the world. A cute little dog waiting patiently with its owner at the metro station was the first to catch my attention. A small bundle of fur looking in the direction of the train - fashionably groomed, stylish, quiet, but with an air of confidence - like the Milanese. The train arrived, the owner picked the little creature in her arms and into the train. No one blinked an eye. It was the most normal thing to see in Milan - a dog sitting on the arm of a Dolce & Gabbana coat! Or was that just another fashion accessory ?
Florence - the birth place of Renaissance. Dogs walking freely, unleashed in crowded piazzas - soaking in the atmosphere - oblivious to the tourists taking pictures of Donatello's sculptures, lifting their legs up at the corner of Palazzo Strozzi, window shopping on Via De'Tornabuoni, admiring the latest fashions from Salvatore Ferragamo, looking down their nose at the tourist pasta places near Il Duomo, sitting on the steps of the Uffizi gallery and contemplating life. The 'Dantes' & 'Michaelangelos' of today's Florence!
Rome - ancient ruins and modern city; chaotic traffic and tranquil alleyways; The rich, the haughty and the 'gente commune'; vespas and ferraris; beggar-dogs and fashionista ones!
The beggar dogs lie on the footpath with a bowl placed in front of them, trying to charm passers-by with their droopy eyes and shaggy looks as they wait to hear the clink of the coins. A loving look, a pat on the back and some change please! The fashionista dogs walk by into the Prada store to check out the latest designs. The polished floors, the glass walls, the minimalistic look, the demure lighting -' Shoes for you and his royal highness?' Rome - where everything and everyone goes!
Naples - the city of contrasts and contradictions. The sturdy, rugged dogs with the 'seen-it-all' look; they have braved many storms, faced harsh realities, survived and thrived in hostile environments. They roam freely on the streets, in the castles and galleria with a swagger, staring right at you as if to ask ' what can you do for me ?' A city where its 'every dog for himself'.
But after a while, its easy to see beneath the hard exterior; the beautiful eyes despite the 'crusties', the royal walk albeit on litter-strewn streets; the vitality and excitement but no rush to reach any destination; the hesitant enjoyment at a gentle stroking of the head. These are the dogs of real Italy - Naples - a city everyone loves to hate and hates to leave!
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